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India, Part 4 – Agra

Friday, April 22nd, 2011

Taj Mahal

We arrived in Agra yesterday, home of the Taj Mahal.  We woke up just before sunrise this morning, and left our hotel in the dark, headed for what was to be the highlight of the trip, the Taj Mahal.  I was particularly excited about seeing this great work of art, from the architectural detail I had studied so many years ago while in college.  And, in addition, knowing it was one of the 7 New Wonders of the World, and has graced the front covers of so many travel magazines and brochures throughout my career. With each step we took closer to the main gates, I was hoping it wouldn’t be disappointing, after the years of build up.  It did not disappoint.  After getting a brief history of the love story between a king who created it for his queen after her death, our guide prepared us for what we were about to see.  As we walked forward through the main gates, the Taj Mahal at first appeared to be shrinking.  It was an optical illusion, made to look that way so that it fit visually inside of the arch of the gateway to the structure.  Once through the gate, it was perfectly symmetrical in every way.  Aside from the amazingly balanced façade, the inlay of fine pieces of lapis, onyx, jasper and other stones and semi precious materials was absolutely breathtaking.  I had heard it said that seeing the Taj Mahal in a book or magazine or photograph didn’t do it justice, and now I know why.  You have to see it to believe it.  20,000 laborers worked for 22 years ’round the clock until the project was finished.  I’m looking forward to seeing it again in February!

We also went to Mother Teresa’s Charity that the Collette Foundation supports.  It was so sad to see all the disparity and sadness of the orphans and the special needs kids and adults that this charity supports.  The babies and toddlers were so happy to have us there to smile at them, to touch them and to hold them.  I brought lots of school supplies and others brought medical supplies.  Next time I come, I want to bring some children’s clothing and books as I think they could really use it.

Driving through the streets of Agra you realize this is a country with  it’s own way of life.  To best sum it up, as we were driving through  town today, I saw two goats standing on a bed (the bed was outside in the  open) with a hula hoop on the bed and one of the goats standing in the  middle of the hula hoop.  Yup, that just about says it all…livestock  walking everywhere, goats, roosters, monkeys, cows, dogs, donkeys, camels.  This was all on just one city block!  Add to it men getting haircuts and shaves right out on the city streets, men using a wall as a public  toilet, baby’s without any pants playing out near the street, cars and  moterbikes racing everywhere, on the wrong side of the street, through red lights and stop signs, in front of pedestrians, all the while, horns  honking.  We are certainly not in Kansas anymore! 

I hope you’ve been enjoying the wonderful photos that Barry has been taking.  He is amazed that each time he holds up the camera, he sees a unique opportunity for a photograph, as you can see by the looks on the faces of the people, as well as the scenery.

A Taste of India, Part 3 – Ranthambore National Park and Tiger Reserve

Monday, April 18th, 2011

We arrived yesterday at our “hunting lodge” (photo safaris only) and after a bite to eat, we went out for our first safari.  The Bengal tiger has been nearly extinct for the past several years, and after a program to reintroduce them back into the wild, the Reserve now has 34 tigers.  Each female roams an area of approximately 25 square kilometers, and each male roams in three different female’s areas. So it’s not too easy to see this elusive animal who is solotary and likes to hang out alone.   When you enter the park, the Parks Department gives you a specific area in which to roam — in search of the tiger who makes this area her home.  We entered Area #1, and after our tracker found the female tiger’s footprints on the road, we went to her favorite watering hole to look for her.  There she was – just waiting for us to arrive!  She soaked in the water and enjoyed the hot sunshine, before a yawn and a stretch and she was up and coming toward us!!! 


With 10 jeeps there to observe her, she came right towards our jeep and got within three feet of us!  Barry was snapping away with super-sonic speed and got some fabulous shots.  The tigress took off walking down the road, followed now by about 15 vehicles.  She walked into the woods and we waited patiently.  She returned to the road and choose our jeep to walk in front of and again, she came right towards us, this time within about a foot or two.  Look at the awesome photos Barry got – just like a National Geographic professional shot!  

Today’s safari did not bring us as much luck.  We were sent to Area #4 today and had hopes of seeing the tigress there, as some of our group were there yesterday and did spot the tiger.  This area houses the oldest tiger in the Reserve.  Just before we went to leave the park, I thought I saw a tiger and had our tracker head down the road to spot her.  Our tracker was convinced that what I had pointed to was real, and so instead of using his cell phone to call the other trackers, he used monkey calls (the monkeys use a warning call to say that tigers are in the area).  After sounding like a monkey for 5 minutes, and having 6 jeeps surround our area, the other guides told him it was a rock!  Oooops!  He should have had binoculars before he used his monkey calls to get the others to come to see.  That was a typical Malori Wilderness Moment. Sorry! My bad.  The tracker felt pretty foolish.
 
We leave early tomorrow morning by train for Agra and the Taj Mahal.  Stay tuned…

A Taste of India, Part 2 – Jaipur

Wednesday, April 13th, 2011

This is the second part from my experiences from India ~

Elephant ride to the Red Fort

India is keeping us very busy!  From morning until late in the evening, we are discovering a country and a culture that is so different from what we know, or what we could have ever imagined!  There’s a warmth to the people, and whether they live on the street, are merchants in the stores or those we are meeting along the way, the people of India have a desire to learn about western culture and want to know everything about us.  Yesterday, one of the managers of the restaurant we were having dinner in came up to us to start a conversation.  After our “hellos and namastes,” he said, “who do you think is the best, better and worst presidents: Bill Clinton, George W. Bush or Obama (why does nobody ever say Barack Omama?)?  Vowing to never get into political discussions with the locals, I did feel compelled to answer the question.  After Barry and I both gave our answers (we gave the same answer), he said, “correct.”  I didn’t think it was a quiz but rather an opinion!  Then we told him why we believed what we said to be true, and he said, “that’s correct.”  I wanted to ask him what he thought about his King, or was it a Prime Minister?  But didn’t we see the home of the President of India in Delhi?  Which one is right?  Oh never mind, I couldn’t even ask him about his political leaders because not only didn’t I know their names, I didn’t know who actually ruled his country.  I obviously have a lot more to learn about the country.

Note the "no honking" sign

We left Udaipur for what was supposed to be a short plane ride to Jaipur.  Before we left the US, we were told the flight was cancelled and we would be driving the 6 ½ hours.  But not to worry, they would provide us with lunch along the way.  Ten hours later, we arrived in Jaipur.  Traffic jams, getting lost on the way to lunch and “Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride” were all part of the adventure.  Oh, and did I mention the bus driver honked his horn the entire way?  When I’m leading a group, I never use my ipod.  Because I was a tourist on this journey, I turned up that volume and enjoyed the music…for 10 hours. 

We arrived in Jaipur, the Pink City, late in the day.  We went to a Buddhist Temple that incorporated all religions.  There was an Islam dome on the structure, a Hindu shape to the roof.  Yes, even Moses was there on the relief sculpture work, right next to Jesus.  No one was left out.  We stayed for the sunset service and just when we were about to leave, the monk sprinkled the entire crowd with holy water.  I tried to dodge the flying water droplets but he was a really good aim.  I have now been anointed or christened or baptised or something.

We walked through the market of the Old City and saw the flower market, the milk market (where the women test the milk to see whether it has been mixed with water by the merchants and stick their fingers in it – ewe!), the bangle market and more.  Fascinating.   There was even a cow walking around in the market!  Everyone just walks around them as if they were not there – like they’re invisible!  And the cows have an attitude, like they own the place.  Actually, I believe they do! 

Snake Charmer

Today we visited the incredible Amber Fort.  After riding an elephant to the top entrance and entering through the gate of the palace, we toured the richly appointed and architecturally interesting structure.  There was so much opulence during the time of the Raj, from marble inlay to hand painted walls and ceilings to hand woven rugs…it gives you a real understanding of what life must have been like for the kings and moguls of India during that time.  Taking a jeep back down the hill, we felt like we were in the middle of an Indiana Jones movie.  Again, our jeep driving honking his horn the entire way down.

Another palace, another temple and a snake charmer (yes, really!) and the day was nearly over.
But wait – a dip in the pool, a quick shower, and we were off again! 

Tonight we had dinner with a local family of noble descent.  They toured us through their 250 year old home, given to them by the Raj and we learned about some of their traditions and how they came to live in their house.  Four brothers and their wifes all share this home, along with their kids and grandkids. Twenty something people shared the same house together – like one big, happy family!  We had dinner on the patio and enjoyed speaking with some of the family members.  They weren’t all outside with us as the family were all trying to watch a huge cricket match pairing Pakistan and India.  These rivals who are often at war with each other are still playing at this moment.  Even the Prime Minister is India is there (but does he rule the country?).  We can’t figure out how to play this game, but is has been going on for the past eight hours, and the score is 210 – 9/4–whatever that means!  We can hear chants and roaring of support in the streets, along with fireworks – at least I hope I’m hearing fireworks!

More to follow…

A Taste of India – Delhi and Udaipur

Sunday, April 10th, 2011


Namaste!

Amazing Journeys is heading to India in 2012.  Malori and Barry just returned from a “fact finding mission” and to put the finishing touches on what will be an incredible experience.  Following are their observations:


Namaste! We arrived in India Friday night, after two different eight hour flights – Pittsburgh – Paris and Paris – Delhi. We were in Paris just long enough to have a very expensive café au lait and pastry (how expensive? Two coffees and one muffin were $20 USD!).

After a good night sleep, we began our tour the next morning.  We met our group of 20.  Barry and I were the last ones to get on the bus and the only seats left were right up in front.  Naturally, we felt right at home.

Delhi is a big, bustling city of roughly 18 million people and a lot of cows. Imagine a city just slightly less populated than LA with cows everywhere! In the streets, on the sidewalk… they have the right of way. We saw the largest mosque in India, took a ricksahaw tour through the streets of Old Delhi, saw the Parliament, Supreme Court, President’s house and the largest minaret in India. We saw where Gandhi was buried (his ashes) and a monument that was the inspiration for the Taj Mahal. It was a typical city tour in an atypical city.  There were those who crowded into shops and restaurants, and those who were so poor they lived in ramshackle houses built with boxes and corrogated steel in neighborhoods with others who lived the same way, under a freeway or in a bare spot of undeveloped land.

Rickshaw ride through Old Delhi


Back at the hotel, Barry and I sat by the pool and fell fast asleep in our lounge chairs. Dinner was served at the hotel with the rest of the group. Everyone was on time for dinner at 7pm, and at 9pm everyone left and went to bed, exhausted.

This morning, Barry and I got to breakfast at 9am as the bus was going to be leaving at 10am for the airport. Where was everyone? Did we mis-hear the time of departure from the hotel?  No, I was sure I had that right. And so we ate alone. Turns out, when you’re from Iowa as most of our group is, and when you go to bed at 9pm, you wake up early and have breakfast as soon as you hear the roosters! The rest of the group ate at 7am, as soon as the breakfast buffet opened.

Off to the brand new airport in Delhi (only six months old), we went through four security checks and were finally flying over the desert to the state of Rajastan, the “Kingdom State.“ With a stop along the way, and another security check before taking off again, we soon realized that we were flying very close to the border between India and Pakistan. One more security check before being allowed to disembark the aircraft, and we were on our way into the town of Udaipur. The lesson here is to save your boarding pass because you have to have it to disembark the aircraft!  One women couldn’t find hers, the guide had already gone into the terminal and so I went into “Tour Guide mode” and talked the security guard into believing that she was with me and that we are all westerners traveling together in a group.  It worked!

The weather outside was a balmy 41C. That’s about 110F!!! Driving through the mountains and desert, we saw castles, forts and palaces. This is where the real India began to unfold. This is the area of the Maharaja. The kings. Palaces with hundreds of rooms, and kings with hundreds of wifes is how I can sum up what this place was all about. Jewels, gemstones, gold…more wealth in the 16th century than any country on earth…combined!  These guys had it all. We’ll get back to that in future posts.

This afternoon, we took a boat ride around the lake where these palaces all face. Many former palaces are now hotels. It was a nice and breezy ride as we sailed past the beautiful architecture of the palaces surrounding the lake and “in” the lake. We saw people bathing in the lake, washing clothes and saw cows who were watching us from the shore, as well as keeping an eye on the bathers and laundresses. We got off at one of the former palaces – turned hotel to walk around and take some photos. This hotel was also the inspiration for the Taj Mahal. I’m beginning to recognize a pattern here.

Palaces on the lake in Udaipur


Back on the bus, we climbed a mountain until we reached our hilltop hotel, an property built from a palace that was moved, piece-by-piece so that was made to look like the original palaces of the Raj. With only 48 rooms, the hotel is absolutely breathtaking as well as luxurious. Surrounded by mountains and overlooking farmland below, we were high above it all with pools, a spa and more.


Hotel Fatah Garh - Udaipur

Dinner tonight was outside, under the stars, overlooking the city of Udaipur with it’s sparkling lights down below us. We felt like kings and queens. Our buffet was a combination of Indian foods, both spicy and milder for the tourist palate, as well as an array of Italian dishes. I have been here two days and have had lasagna three times! The good news for vegetarians and those who don’t eat meat due to kosher concerns is that there are lots and lots of vege options – more than meat choices!


Tomorrow morning we get up bright and early for our Yoga class on the patio, overlooking the mountains and valley below, before visiting the palaces.

More from India soon…Namaste!

Amazing Journeys heads to Costa Rica

Tuesday, April 5th, 2011

Another Amazing Journey embarks on Thursday with our 3rd Jewish singles trip to Costa Rica.  This remarkable destination is chock full of deliciously warm weather, lush green massive rainforests, extraordinary adventure and an undeveloped landscape that makes coming here a true natural wonder.  No tall buildings, no massive crowds, never a feeling of “touristy” and no lack of surprises.    Among other things, we’ll be hiking an active volcano, canyoning down a waterfall, horseback riding through the rainforest, and zip lining ABOVE the treetops at over 7000 feet…just to name a few.  We’ll also spend three nights at the amazing Tabacon Resort at the base of the Arenal Volcano where we’ll indulge in the beauty, landscape and surroundings of the natural hotsprings, mineral pools and waterfalls created by this volatile and spectacular phenomenon.

Follow our exploration and experience of our eight night tour in Costa Rica by visiting our Facebook page: www.facebook.com/amazingjourneys  where we’ll post some moments-in-time from this awesome tour.